[RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds

[Indigo]

You can get that sharper initial string attack on a Les Paul, or any 
humbucker, by using a 500k ohms tone pot, instead of the 250k ohms pots 
Fender  used on the Squire HH.
The larger the resistance of the tone pot, the less high frequencies 
bleed off to ground through the tone pots.
250K ohms is great for single pole pickups, because they're so much 
brighter than humbuckers, you can afford to hear less brightness from 
them; and Fender has so little experience with using humbuckers maybe 
they didn't know.
But, if you do change out to 500K ohm tone pots in an HH, the bridge 
pickup will have that extra  twang you get in those wonderful old 
Gibsons; and you'll be in danger of ending up playing TexMex Swing. smile.
Indi


On 9/18/2013 7:20 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
> your right, the string through design with a hard tail bridge, IE a
> telecaster, has excellent sustain.  A telecaster has amazing sustain.
> A les paul only has a bit more because of the set neck.
> Actually, a telly typically has more sustain than a les paul, but an LP
> doesn't have that sharp initial attack which sort of makes a telly sound
> like it has less sustain...the lp will keep that mid range snarl going
> for longer, but the over all length of the sustain is a bit less on an
> LP compared to a telecaster.
> I have  audibility on my telecaster low E string for 21 seconds.
> now there is sustain lol.
> that's also with the new earny ball cobalt strings which honestly do
> have the most sustain of any strings I've ever used.  I still don't like
> the feel of them much, but there is no denying they sustain forever.
>
> Regards
> Colin
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 4:48 PM
> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>
>> In looking at the six-screw Fender trem pivot system, it seems to me
>> that it would have a heck of a lot less friction if it pivoted on a
>> hard metal strip instead of pivoting on painted wood.
>>
>> Also, if the metal pivot strip was glued to the wood with a really
>> hard glue; like apoxy, it would transfer more vibration than the soft
>> Fender plastic paint transmits to wood.
>> Bare wood might transmit more vibration, but you'd get way more
>> friction than with the trem pivot against painted wood.
>> I'm not even certain you'd get more sustain from the bare soft woods
>> electric guitars are made of, like Alder, ash, basswood.
>> Their softness might deaden the bridge plate's vibrations.
>> I might try making a metal insert to go below the trem pivot; like a
>> piece of stainless steel shim.
>> Probably the greatest friction point in the 6-screw system is where
>> the screws slide against the sides of the holes in the bridge plate.
>> You can lube at that point, but you still have a bunch of friction there.
>>
>> Well, I would think that if not using your trem, and blocking it in,
>> plus using 5 springs increases sustain, then a hard tail bridge with
>> strings-through-body should provide the greatest amount of sustain
>> possible.
>> Some people believe that the whole trem system, with its block and
>> twangy springs, makes a Strat sound like a Strat.
>> Slipping rubber surgical tubing over each spring to deaden it would
>> ruin the Strat resonance.
>> I haven't decided any of these things, just observing and
>> experimenting before drawing conclusions.
>> In my wife's photo studio there's a device of some kind with nice
>> foot long springs.
>> Man, I can't walk by that thing without plucking those springs
>> Amazing harp-like  and very synthesizer-like sounds in a big spring
>> like that, and no two springs sound the same.
>> I'll have to record that sound and put it in Alchemy to spread across
>> a keyboard, or run granular synthesis on it.
>> Indi
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/2013 12:29 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>> the higher quality metal in the trem block helps sustain because it
>>> allows bettter transfer of vibration into the body wood from the
>>> strings.
>>> the cheap pot metal kind of sucks it up.  You know how if you tap a
>>> really cheap butter knife on the counter top it kind of tings, but
>>> doesn't sustain a long clear note?  whereas, if you have a well made,
>>> high quality piece of flat ware, a butter knife, and you tap it on the
>>> counter, you'll get a clear ringing note that will sustain a long time
>>> with good quality cast metal.
>>> Don't forget, every fender style trem also has springs that attach that
>>> chunk of metal in the block to the body via the spring claw.  The
>>> quality of the springs will also help with sustain and even the over all
>>> tone sometimes.
>>> The more springs you have, the more vibration transfer you will
>>> achieve.  If you don't use the trem at all, putting 5 springs in, plus a
>>> block between the metal trem block and the side of the routed area will
>>> improve transfer even more.
>>> Also, the 6 screw bridge design insures a very solid contact between the
>>> trem plate and the top of the guitar compared to the american standard
>>> design of two bridge pins.
>>> I also wish they would not coat the wood at the point where the trem
>>> plate touches the guitar...this would improve tone, volume and sustain
>>> even more if the layer upon layer of coating wasn't in the way.
>>> If you have stock tuners, cheap tuners, on anything still, just work
>>> them a little bit each day to prevent those dead spots from happening.
>>> Even just an eighth of a turn and then back to standard pitch will keep
>>> them from developing those dead spots and slack points.
>>>
>>> regards
>>> Colin
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 10:13 AM
>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>
>>>> I do all those string tricks now; smoothing and lubeing friction
>>>> points, stretchings strings manually.
>>>> After reading the great articles on how to get a Fender trem to return
>>>> to tuning after use, I have smoothed the saddle slots, plus lube them
>>>> with teflon, one of my guitars already has a GraphTech Tusq teflonized
>>>> nut, plus the Schaller-type Fender tuners.
>>>> You definitely can't get more than a couple of turns onto those
>>>> extremely short Shaller pegs, and their locking system never slips.
>>>> I don't have problems with the strings slipping on the cheapo Squire
>>>> tuners either; I don't put too many turns onto them; it's just that
>>>> they're stiff as a board when new, then will get crunchy or sloppy as
>>>> they wear, with a big dead spot as you turn the tuning key.
>>>> I really don't mind the cost or work changing them to quality tuners,
>>>> ; only not Schaller-types again, because of its very troublesome
>>>> mounting system.
>>>> Mainly what I need right now is new cast saddles for my Squire Mini,
>>>> which has cheap stamped sheet-metal saddles, and the height adjusting
>>>> screws rattle in the worn out threads in the saddles.
>>>> I'm getting a shipment soon which will include saddles.
>>>> Eventually, I'll probably get a heavy steel trem block for the Squire
>>>> HH, to replace the stock pot metal block.
>>>> You know, Colin, my wife and I sell all kinds of antique and
>>>> collectable things, and potmetal, sometimes called Britannia, or white
>>>> metal, has been around for hundreds of years; used for very
>>>> respectable sculptures, lamps, all kinds of beautiful old things; but
>>>> used to be much harder than the pot metal, or zinc alloy, that Fender
>>>> uses now.
>>>> The stock cast saddles are not much harder than copper, you can easily
>>>> scratch them with a knife, almost like lead; not nearly as hard as
>>>> yellow brass.
>>>> I think they're okay when new, but if you do much adjusting of the
>>>> saddles those threads will wear out and the screws will rattle.
>>>> I can get a set of 6 cast stainless steel saddles for about $13 USD,
>>>> probably worth getting those.
>>>> I suppose a hard steel trem block will provide more sustain than the
>>>> acoustically dead pot metal trem block, some folks say so anyway;
>>>> though I really can'comprehend how the part of the string beyond the
>>>> saddle could influence sustain.
>>>>
>>>> I would never call myself a competant guitarist, since my arthritic
>>>> hands and wrists make it very painful to hold big chords; So, I get by
>>>> with slinky .09-42 strings, plus I put a cut capo on the second fret,
>>>> sometimes other frets, which only capos strings 3, 4, and 5.
>>>> This gives a wonderful bunch of chords that only require a couple of
>>>> fingers to hold, and the droning open strings take me into a Celtic
>>>> world of harmony.
>>>> There's another cut capo technique that uses the 3, 4, 5, capo, plus a
>>>> full six string capo 2 frets below that; that offers a multitude of
>>>> chord equivalents.
>>>> I'll do what ever it takes to get by.
>>>> Indi
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 9/18/2013 12:43 AM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>> you know as a highly experienced guitar player, as are many people
>>>>> here
>>>>> I would guess, the quality of the tuners is only part of the equation
>>>>> for stable tuning.
>>>>> I can obtain pretty stable tuning even with the worst tuners just
>>>>> because I pay attention to how I thread and wind my strings.  The
>>>>> method
>>>>> I use gives the string an awful lot of stability at the tuning peg
>>>>> itself.
>>>>> Also proper bending and so on at the saddle and nut helps to keep that
>>>>> string where it's supposed to be, or allows it to return to a given
>>>>> point even with trem use on a guitar without locking machine heads
>>>>> etc.
>>>>> If you look around on youtube, there are some tricks that high end pro
>>>>> level guitar techs use to maximize tuning stability on strats where
>>>>> the
>>>>> player uses the trem but doesn't want locking anything.
>>>>> I've been using some of them for a few years and I get excellent
>>>>> results...even on the vintage tuners that come stock on the squier
>>>>> classic vibe guitars.  you know, the slotted peg where you poke the
>>>>> end
>>>>> of the string into the middle of the peg...and therefore have to
>>>>> cut it
>>>>> to the right length etc.
>>>>> It's mostly about kinking the string on both sides of the peg before
>>>>> winding, and making sure the windings are even, and that the string
>>>>> stays at the bottom of the winding going towards the nut...also, the
>>>>> right number of windings, no more than 2.5, and that's even a bit much
>>>>> for good solid stability.
>>>>> too many windings gives the string too much to slip on...kinking the
>>>>> string helps to keep it in position in the peg hole, or in the peg
>>>>> slot.
>>>>> Also, of course, even consistent stretching of the string once up to
>>>>> full tention to take all the slack, if any, out of the windings makes
>>>>> all the difference in the world.  I pull the strings out from the
>>>>> fingerboard and snap them until the open string doesn't drop more
>>>>> than a
>>>>> quarter step when pulled sharply.
>>>>> there are lots of ways to skin the cat with strings, but some methods
>>>>> just work everytime and allow you to have a guitar that stays in tune
>>>>> very well with lots of bending, and that will stay in tune even ifyou
>>>>> don't play if for a while.
>>>>> The old excuse of, oh, I have new strings and that's why it's going
>>>>> out
>>>>> of tune or is out of tune is absolute crap if you have put them on
>>>>> correctly.
>>>>> sorry, had to rant there.  I'm sure this discussion has digressed
>>>>> in the
>>>>> extreme from the original thread, sorry guys.
>>>>>
>>>>> regards
>>>>> Colin
>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 7:40 PM
>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>
>>>>>> This is from that same guy, who talks a lot, but really compares
>>>>>> details on guitars.
>>>>>> I'm sorry he has no clean sound for this Squire Bullet HH, but you
>>>>>> can
>>>>>> still hear the big humbucker sound.
>>>>>> By the way, he's feeding into the Overloud TH2, I think it's called,
>>>>>> all software amp modeling.
>>>>>> He describes the tone controls on the HH wrong.
>>>>>> It doesn't have a screwy wiring system, actually very simple; each
>>>>>> pickup has its own entirely separate tone control.
>>>>>> , Of course both tone controls would do the same thing in the middle
>>>>>> position, since each is controlling its own pickup.
>>>>>> Notice how much stronger an effect the tone controls get than on SSS
>>>>>> strats, at least on the ones here.
>>>>>> He's out of tune on this one as well., always says he has new
>>>>>> strings.
>>>>>> He's right about the stock tuners, they're the really horrible cheapo
>>>>>> ones with a shell made of stamped metal, and very crude gears.
>>>>>> I took mine apart and crammed a bunch of my secret mixture horrible
>>>>>> tuner lubricant inside, so now all but 1 are smooth enough.
>>>>>> I'll replace them with some good ones later, but never Schallers
>>>>>> again.
>>>>>> Installing Schallers was a nightmare, with their mounting system.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYnSSrAHYoQ
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 6:20 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>> don't worry I found the clip I think...the one where he compares the
>>>>>>> fifties with the sixties strat, and the john mayor strat?
>>>>>>> all three dreadfully out of tune lol.
>>>>>>> I found the fifties strat had more chime, a smoother low end
>>>>>>> presence
>>>>>>> and was just nicer sounding...given the recording and amp
>>>>>>> conditions.
>>>>>>> the sixties strat definitely had more mid punch and a bit more
>>>>>>> bite, and
>>>>>>> did the hendrix stuff quite well.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> of course all my local stores are out of stock on the squier HH,
>>>>>>> and out
>>>>>>> of stock on the 60's strat too...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> the john mayor signature strat was smoother and more articulate,
>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>> some of the clang and rasp associated with cheaper pickups.  but,
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>> $350, both the classic vibe strats were more than acceptible to my
>>>>>>> ears.
>>>>>>> A simple pick up change to something more suited to the player and
>>>>>>> style
>>>>>>> of music while still maintaining the strat vibe still puts you
>>>>>>> ahead of
>>>>>>> the cost of a mexican made standard strat.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BTW, both the custom, and '50's tellies are routed for a
>>>>>>> humbucker at
>>>>>>> the neck position.
>>>>>>> That's because one of the models, the thin line maybe? has a
>>>>>>> humbucker
>>>>>>> at the neck...it sounds horrible though with the stock pickup.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:58 PM
>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hey, I got the right guitar, a Classic Vibes Telley, but the wrong
>>>>>>>> YouTube, which would have been comparing the Strat 50's and
>>>>>>>> 60's; and
>>>>>>>> not the Telecaster.
>>>>>>>> Anyway, it's a great sounding guitar in this video, isn't it?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 4:49 PM, Indigo wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I think this is the link to the YouTube of both the 50''s and 60's
>>>>>>>>> classic Vibes compared, in the same YouTube by the same player,
>>>>>>>>> feeding
>>>>>>>>> them both into the same effects and amp model.
>>>>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNaxOo9SNgo
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The 50's has Alnico 3 magnets, and the 60's has the more powerful
>>>>>>>>> Alnico
>>>>>>>>> 5 magnets, plus the 60's pickups are slightly overwound, just as
>>>>>>>>> Fender
>>>>>>>>> originally made them sometime in the 1960's, 1967 I think it was.
>>>>>>>>> What's to say, I absolutely love the soft sweetness of the 50's
>>>>>>>>> pickups,
>>>>>>>>> especially in blues, but the slightly nasty snarl of the 60's
>>>>>>>>> pickups is
>>>>>>>>> also compelling, so I gotta get both eventually.
>>>>>>>>> At $20 for the 50's neck pickup, $18 for the middle and bridge,
>>>>>>>>> how
>>>>>>>>> can
>>>>>>>>> I not hoard them?
>>>>>>>>> I'm gonna write to the dealer and try to get a even more bargain
>>>>>>>>> deal on
>>>>>>>>> a complete set of both.
>>>>>>>>> A few years down the road they'll be worth much more, plus quality
>>>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>>> probably have deteriorated by then
>>>>>>>>> There's a Strat forum that discovered that the factory in China
>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>> winds them also winds the exact same pickups and markets them with
>>>>>>>>> ToneRider labels on them for $100 each.
>>>>>>>>> The Strat forum guys got both the Fender Classic Vibes and the
>>>>>>>>> ToneRiders and took them apart, measured their number of windings,
>>>>>>>>> impedance, voltage output, every detail; and report that even the
>>>>>>>>> parts
>>>>>>>>> numbers are the same, with only a different letter prefix.
>>>>>>>>> Hey, try a Squire HH when you go to get the Classic Vibes Telley.
>>>>>>>>> As a Fender guy, haven't you always harbored a secret envy of that
>>>>>>>>> huge
>>>>>>>>> humbucker sound of Gibsons?
>>>>>>>>> I always did. smile.
>>>>>>>>> The other night I had it on the bridge pickup, with its Texas
>>>>>>>>> twangyness, and got into countryish sounds with it, a totally
>>>>>>>>> foreign
>>>>>>>>> thing for me.
>>>>>>>>> I don't even own a John B Stetson ten gallon hat!
>>>>>>>>> Nothing will replace the Strat single poles, but I never thought I
>>>>>>>>> could
>>>>>>>>> get such a great humbucker sound from Fender, for only $99, on
>>>>>>>>> sale
>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>> Musician's Friend.
>>>>>>>>> When you lift up the pickguard you see there's a place routed out
>>>>>>>>> in the
>>>>>>>>> middle for a single pole pickup, if you want to add one.
>>>>>>>>> You'd need to add a switch for it, though, and I think I'll just
>>>>>>>>> leave
>>>>>>>>> the HH as it is, and do my experimentation on the mid-nineties
>>>>>>>>> Squire
>>>>>>>>> PartsCaster.
>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 2:09 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> the classic vibe '50's has the pine body. the classic vibe custom
>>>>>>>>>> has an
>>>>>>>>>> alder body I think...
>>>>>>>>>> I expect I'll have to go get the original guitar I wanted, being
>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> classic vibe '50's telly...I like the custom, but the pine body,
>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>> neck etc just screams that telly sound to me.
>>>>>>>>>> the custom is warmer and a bit rounder sounding if you will. but
>>>>>>>>>> still
>>>>>>>>>> plenty of telly twang and bite.
>>>>>>>>>> More of a modern telecaster sound.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> It's not just the woods in an electric, but the combination of
>>>>>>>>>> woods
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> hardware and pickups and design that all work together to make an
>>>>>>>>>> electric sound like it does.
>>>>>>>>>> Though a swamp ash strat, will sound quite different than a
>>>>>>>>>> basswood
>>>>>>>>>> strat with exactly the same pickups and hardware etc.  Often
>>>>>>>>>> it's a
>>>>>>>>>> diffference in attack, release, sustain,  peak frequency of each
>>>>>>>>>> string
>>>>>>>>>> etc.
>>>>>>>>>> And I can tell you right now, a maple fingerboard sounds utterly
>>>>>>>>>> different than a rosewood fingerboard on an electric.
>>>>>>>>>> probably not allot of tonal difference between say alder and
>>>>>>>>>> basswood...many woods are highly similar as you know.
>>>>>>>>>> wood is often a very subtle thing in a guitar, but it does make
>>>>>>>>>> enough
>>>>>>>>>> difference from instrument to instrument to make them
>>>>>>>>>> individuals.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Did you recommend the classic vibe 50's strat, or the 60's strat?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:51 AM
>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Well, I think it's okay to talk guitars here, since guitars have
>>>>>>>>>>> midi
>>>>>>>>>>> too. ha ha, and I record my guitar in Reaper.
>>>>>>>>>>> I think that Classic Vibes Telly  has the pine body, yes?
>>>>>>>>>>> Pine is probably great for a guitar body.
>>>>>>>>>>> You know basswood is what they use for most of the Squires, and
>>>>>>>>>>> it's
>>>>>>>>>>> not as respected as White Ash, mahogany or some of the other
>>>>>>>>>>> woods,
>>>>>>>>>>> but I worked with basswood when I was into model airplanes as a
>>>>>>>>>>> kid,
>>>>>>>>>>> and it's the wood of the really noble Linden tree; that grows a
>>>>>>>>>>> hundred feet tall before it gets many branches, so its wood is
>>>>>>>>>>> absolutely straight grained and tight, soft enough to work
>>>>>>>>>>> easily, but
>>>>>>>>>>> hard enough to take a great finish, actually ideal for electric
>>>>>>>>>>> guitar
>>>>>>>>>>> bodies.
>>>>>>>>>>> Sometimes the oriental-made Fenders cheaton the actual wood
>>>>>>>>>>> used in
>>>>>>>>>>> the necks.
>>>>>>>>>>> I have two made in Indonesia Squires; that have real rock maple
>>>>>>>>>>> necks;
>>>>>>>>>>> as hard and dense as wood gets; and a Made in China Squire from
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> mid nineties that had the excessively fat baseball bat neck,
>>>>>>>>>>> which I
>>>>>>>>>>> slimmed down, and it's an OK wood, but it's definitely not
>>>>>>>>>>> maple.
>>>>>>>>>>> Same with the Korean pseudo-strat, its neck is also some
>>>>>>>>>>> oriental
>>>>>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>>>>>> that looks the same color as maple,; my wife says; but I know
>>>>>>>>>>> how
>>>>>>>>>>> maple works, and how it smells when you're cutting it.
>>>>>>>>>>> My wife and I lived in upper New York state for a while, with
>>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>>> trees all around, I drilled holes in the Sugar Maples and made
>>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>>> syrup, so I know maple.
>>>>>>>>>>> Maple was a common furniture wood in America for centuries,
>>>>>>>>>>> and I
>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>> maple furniture parts around here.
>>>>>>>>>>> When I get through with some current experiments, I'm going to
>>>>>>>>>>> build a
>>>>>>>>>>> sort of chapman stick thing, and I'll probably use some old
>>>>>>>>>>> furniture
>>>>>>>>>>> maple for its body.
>>>>>>>>>>> I already cut down the body from the Korean pseudo-strat to
>>>>>>>>>>> make a
>>>>>>>>>>> chapman stick thing and got sick from the poisonous wood and
>>>>>>>>>>> glue in
>>>>>>>>>>> its body.
>>>>>>>>>>> I think it was Black Ash, or some variant, which I was really
>>>>>>>>>>> allergic
>>>>>>>>>>> to as a kid.
>>>>>>>>>>> Actually, I'm not buying the mythology of how much difference
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> species of wood makes to the sound of an electric guitar.
>>>>>>>>>>> Some of the Dan Electros of the sixties and earlier weren't even
>>>>>>>>>>> wood,
>>>>>>>>>>> but that paper pressed board, about 3/eighths inch thick, with a
>>>>>>>>>>> minimal frame inside of 1 inch square Douglas Fir wood, and a
>>>>>>>>>>> big
>>>>>>>>>>> rubber bumper all around the outside edge, so you could knock it
>>>>>>>>>>> around all you pleased  and it'd never show a scar.
>>>>>>>>>>> Those Dan Electros bring big prices from the collectors.
>>>>>>>>>>> The Dan Electros were totally shielded against hum inside, so
>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>> weren't affected by flourescent lights or amps nearby, which
>>>>>>>>>>> helped
>>>>>>>>>>> their sound more than any fancy wood would ever have done.
>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 6:19 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> yep, the clasic vibe '50's telly was my first choice, but
>>>>>>>>>>>> all the
>>>>>>>>>>>> local
>>>>>>>>>>>> stores were sold out, and I won't buy a guitar without
>>>>>>>>>>>> playing it
>>>>>>>>>>>> first.
>>>>>>>>>>>> The classic vibe custom telly was a real close second, and I
>>>>>>>>>>>> actually
>>>>>>>>>>>> liked it a bit more with the rosewood fingerboard...I know, I
>>>>>>>>>>>> know,
>>>>>>>>>>>> tellies should be maple, but just the combinations of woods
>>>>>>>>>>>> makes
>>>>>>>>>>>> this
>>>>>>>>>>>> one sound incredibly telly like.
>>>>>>>>>>>> anyway, this isn't the blind guitarist list hahaha.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 3:55 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> When I heard YouTube demos of the Classic Vibe 50's and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 60's, I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> said I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> gotta have those pickups, which are classic alnico III or
>>>>>>>>>>>>> alnico 5's
>>>>>>>>>>>>> staggered single poles; and copied exactly from the ones
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strats
>>>>>>>>>>>>> had in
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the fifties or sixties, only with vinyl insulated wires
>>>>>>>>>>>>> instead of
>>>>>>>>>>>>> cloth covered.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I bought the Classic Vibes fifties neck position pickup new,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> genuine
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Fender part with serial number, for $20 on ebay
>>>>>>>>>>>>> It's sitting in the neck position on my Squire Mini right
>>>>>>>>>>>>> now, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> sounds great.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm going to order the others later, the middle and bridge of
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Classic Vibes fifties and sixties; too good to miss for
>>>>>>>>>>>>> such low
>>>>>>>>>>>>> prices, and the next thing you know they won't be available
>>>>>>>>>>>>> any
>>>>>>>>>>>>> more.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> They're not over Wound or hot, just soft and sweet!
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I really don't get why alnico should sound so good, magnets
>>>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>>>> magnets, and I can't believe the material could put out a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> different
>>>>>>>>>>>>> sort of magnetism, but the alnicos sure do sound sweeter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On the other hand, I think the Squire HH humbuckers are
>>>>>>>>>>>>> ceramic, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it's so easy to get a classic fat Gibson sound from them.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 5:32 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> squier's have gotten really good again.  I've got the classic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> vibe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> custom telecaster and it's a very very good guitar in all
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> aspects.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Putting seymour duncan vintage 54's on it soon because that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is my
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> preference not because the stock pickups are bad.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll try out the squier HH next time i'm in the guitar shop.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 3:16 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I read that Gibson is sneaking partial printed circuit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> boards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> into
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> their guitars.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strats and Squires are still hand-wired circuits, though
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the China 5 way switch looks like something you'd find on a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> printed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> circuit board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sometimes it's just luck.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just got the Squire HH, with two Fender-made humbuckers,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and a 3
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> position switch.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Man does it sound like a big fat Les Paul Gibson, and not
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> much
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strat, but what a winner for $99.95.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Made in Indonesia, with a perfect neck, perfect intonation,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> low
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lying
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> action, nothing I need to do with setup to make it better.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I believe the body cavity is even painted with conductive
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shielding
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> paint, because there's a grounding wire screwed into the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> at the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bottom of the cavity.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> It's dead quiet, no hum at all, even before I got the Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> G2.1U
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grounded.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll replace the stock tuners sometime, probably get better
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> saddles,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> probably a steel trem block instead of the potMetal one, but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> those
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just niceties, not essentials.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Some people report crooked necks, setup all wrong, crooked
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The first Peavey Power Slide I got; Handcrafted in China,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had no
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> springs on the pickup, so if you tilted the guitar the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pickup
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> fell
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> toward the strings, then when you tilted the guitar  the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> other way
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pickup fell to the bottom of the body cavity.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Whoever strung it up had sharp kinks in the middle of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> most of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> strings.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I could have found springs for the pickup somewhere, but I
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> called
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Peavey and they said to send it back, not to fix it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The next one was totally perfect, no flaws I can find.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I guess the factory terminated the worker who made the first
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> recycled him.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 3:34 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> yep, that's how they're making them and have been for quite
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> some
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> if you read any amp forum, especially fender amp forums,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> first recommended mods is to install a proper input jack
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> amp...one that has lots of metal in it, and that you can
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hard
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wire to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the PCB instead of the stock plastic version that has pcb
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lugs
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> soldered
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directly to the board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Input or output jack nuts are constantly coming loose with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regular
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> use,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and so once that nut has loosened off a bit, all the strain
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> patch cable is put onto the solder lugs of the jack, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thus
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pcb itself. This either snaps off lugs, breaks solder
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> joints, or,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cracks
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> traces on the board...stupid design, but a buck cheaper
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> manufacturer.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that's why I always run my cable through the handle on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> amp
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> strain relief.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've got an older dunlop crybaby wah which is supposed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> high
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quality construction.  I opened up to fix, and both
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jacks are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plastic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> housed and have spring pins for the ground contact on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sleve
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quarter inch plug...what happens with spring contacts?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> either
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bend, or loose their spring over time and fail to make
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contact.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> guess
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> why the pedal isn't working right now? lol  and the worst
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> part
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is, the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> way they designed the pedal, you have to use these specific
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jacks
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> because of their housing and how the shell of the pedal is
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> built.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the common quarter inch phone jack is a very old design
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> industry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and consumers I guess, are still willing to put up with the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inherent
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> problems associated with those kinds of connections.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> not only are you depending on a compression spring contact,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but it
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> moves
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and twists all the time.  neutric, speak on, even xlr is
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> far
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> better.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and don't even get me started on gold plating lol.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:45 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You know, something bothers me about what you say about
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inputs and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> outputs having plastic threads.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> For a jack to work you need at least two conduction
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> points, 1
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sleeve of the plug and another 1 for its tip.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Please don't say that China is making all plastic jacks,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> tinfoil thick metal liner inside the plastic shell?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Oh Lord, what next; are they going to make our gear
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> entirely
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rice
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flour noodles?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The China pickguard I just bought has a 5 way toggle
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> feels
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about the same from the topside as the classic Fender
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> underneath the pickguard you find the switch is only a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> little
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle made of fiberboard, with tiny solder lugs and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contact
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> points riveted to the fiberboard.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I was replacing the neck pickup, and placed the tip of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> soldering
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> gun against the corner lug, with light pressure, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> suddenly
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the lug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and a chunk of the fiberboard split off.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So great to watch how it all is getting flimsier and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flimsier;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> isn't
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Luckily I have a classic-era  Fender 5 way switch to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> replace it
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> an all metal thing with big sturdy solder lugs and switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contacts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inside it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> By the way, if you're an experimenter, you can make an
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> auditory
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> conductivity meter from a small battery holder,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> preferably a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> single
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> triple A battery, wired in series with any old single
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> headphone
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> salvaged from a pair of stereo headphones that quit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> working
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on one
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> side.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You end up with 2 wires.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If there is conduction between any 2 lugs you touch with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> those 2
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wires; you hear a nice loud click in the headphone.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You can use a battery that's too weak to run any gear, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it'll
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plenty of voltage to make the headphone click for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> months and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> months.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 12:00 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you got lucky, many pedals and multi-effects units these
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> days
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plastic shell input/output jacks.  Which means that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> though
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> may
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a metal nut on the outside, it's holding a plastic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> housing
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> around
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jack.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> IE, no ground path through the retention nut.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You often have to go inside and solder or secure a lug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plate that generally resides on the bottom of these
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> units to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> give
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> them
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Even the hallowed boss pedals use a big old plate on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bottom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal to give it some weight and make people think it's a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> higher
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quality
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> unit because it's heavier...it's also done to help
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> keep the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sliding around all over the place.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you also got lucky because putting an additional wire
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> unit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> other equipment in your signal path can often create
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ground
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> loops
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> causes a bigger problem than before.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> don't forget, your patch cables do all the grounding for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> least on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the audio signal path side.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wall warts have no ground to speak of beyond the obvious
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ground side of the 2 prong plug into the wall.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What you were actually experiencing was a high level
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of AC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> floating on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the DC coming from the wallwart to your pedal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wallwarts are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seldom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> properly rectified, so they have allot of AC bleeding
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> through
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> causes the hum you hear.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that is why allot of pro audio gear uses AC to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> equipment, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> takes
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> care of the rectification and filtering inside the unit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> itself.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> what you've essentially done is allowed for some
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectification on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the dc
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and you are bleeding the ac off into a large ground
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> source, IE
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rack...the rack probably has something in it that has
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> excellent
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectification and a good solid ground source to bleed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> additional AC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> anyway, regardless, sounds like it worked.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> anyone who runs 9VDC equipment in the studio should
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> proper
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> power
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supply to help minimize hum and so on.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 4:11 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm not too skilled on either, but I'd rather play midi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> files
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> keyboard than from a guitar.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I only want midi pads to make guitar tracks more lush;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and do
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> what
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only synths can do in the background.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Yesterday I put a ground wire on my Zoom G2.1U, did a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> neat job
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> solder lug under the nut on the pedal jack in back'
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wire
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up to the steel and aluminum rack; where all the gear
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resides,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seems to have soaked up all the stray RF fields in this
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> room; so
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hum
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is no longer a problem.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The little 9 volt wall wart transformer for the Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal was
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internally well grounded, so that I would hear hum and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buzz
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> very high gain overdrive settings, but could touch the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cover of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the cable's plug; or touch the metal foot switches on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the hum and buzz would go away.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Amazing what a good ground our body provides!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can only imagine how many different RF frequencies are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buzzing
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> through my body right now, and I don't even feel them.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So, now that it's properly grounded; the Zoom is good
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> enough
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> as a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> multi-effects unit and preamp for the guitar, then I
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> got the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> version of Roger Linn's Adrenalinn to run in Reaper.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Adrenalinn does pretty things to guitar notes and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> chords,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> delays
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that go through 32 step arpeggios that are way more
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sophisticated
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> than
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the usual keyboard arpeggios.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You aren't intended to play fast lines; instead you just
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> play
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slowly
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and provide room  for Adrenalinn to do its arpeggios and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> filter
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> modulations.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Meanwhile, if I can get a software pitch-to-midi plug to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bring in
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lush
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> midi pads, behind the guitar; the tracks will be filled
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plenty of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> beautiful sounds.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If I want a quick passage on a midi synth, I'd be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inclined to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> reach for a keyboard and play it there; so tracking
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> guitar
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't need to be fast, and doesn't even need to be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> polyphonic;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> does need to be accurate to trigger midi pads in the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> right
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> key.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Several of the software pitch-to-midi plugs I've
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> collected
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> option to restrict the midi output to a fixed scale, so
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it's
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> theoretically impossible to get notes that glitch out of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> key.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've just got to find time to test out the various
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pitch-to-midi
>>>>>
>
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