[RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds

[Indigo]

I think I'm going to drill string through holes in the hardtail bridge 
on my little Squier Mini.
It's 3 quarter length, for kids, which makes hand stretch easier for my 
hands, and it's a real Strat, with a beautiful Indonesian Rock Maple 
neck, 20 frets, and standard Strat hardware.
I don't think I'll buy string ferrules, but just drill the string holes 
through the bridge; body, and a metal backing plate.
The plate is a thick piece of Monell my dad left around here;  which is 
a kind of softer grade stainless steel with lots of nickel; that never 
corrodes.
That plate will look great when polished to a mirror finish, and totally 
shield the pickups and wiring from the backside, plus if I glue it on 
with hard apoxy, I'll bet it will transmit a huge amount of string 
vibration back into the guitar body.
The body will be squeezed by string pull between the chromed steel 
hardtail bridge plate and that Monell backing plate.
I don't mind having the string end discs showing at the backside.
I'd rather have that than have the string ends disappear down a ferrule, 
or down the string holes in a trem block
In the PartsCaster I couldn't get an old original  string to pack out of 
the trem block; and when I finally got it out, a couple of old broken 
off string ends came out of the trem block with it.
Man, I don't understand why Fender decided to have the strings go down 
inside  the trem block, instead of having smaller string holes; with the 
string end discs sitting on the surface of the end of the trem block.
Makes no sense to me!
Indi



On 9/18/2013 7:20 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
> your right, the string through design with a hard tail bridge, IE a
> telecaster, has excellent sustain.  A telecaster has amazing sustain.
> A les paul only has a bit more because of the set neck.
> Actually, a telly typically has more sustain than a les paul, but an LP
> doesn't have that sharp initial attack which sort of makes a telly sound
> like it has less sustain...the lp will keep that mid range snarl going
> for longer, but the over all length of the sustain is a bit less on an
> LP compared to a telecaster.
> I have  audibility on my telecaster low E string for 21 seconds.
> now there is sustain lol.
> that's also with the new earny ball cobalt strings which honestly do
> have the most sustain of any strings I've ever used.  I still don't like
> the feel of them much, but there is no denying they sustain forever.
>
> Regards
> Colin
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 4:48 PM
> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>
>> In looking at the six-screw Fender trem pivot system, it seems to me
>> that it would have a heck of a lot less friction if it pivoted on a
>> hard metal strip instead of pivoting on painted wood.
>>
>> Also, if the metal pivot strip was glued to the wood with a really
>> hard glue; like apoxy, it would transfer more vibration than the soft
>> Fender plastic paint transmits to wood.
>> Bare wood might transmit more vibration, but you'd get way more
>> friction than with the trem pivot against painted wood.
>> I'm not even certain you'd get more sustain from the bare soft woods
>> electric guitars are made of, like Alder, ash, basswood.
>> Their softness might deaden the bridge plate's vibrations.
>> I might try making a metal insert to go below the trem pivot; like a
>> piece of stainless steel shim.
>> Probably the greatest friction point in the 6-screw system is where
>> the screws slide against the sides of the holes in the bridge plate.
>> You can lube at that point, but you still have a bunch of friction there.
>>
>> Well, I would think that if not using your trem, and blocking it in,
>> plus using 5 springs increases sustain, then a hard tail bridge with
>> strings-through-body should provide the greatest amount of sustain
>> possible.
>> Some people believe that the whole trem system, with its block and
>> twangy springs, makes a Strat sound like a Strat.
>> Slipping rubber surgical tubing over each spring to deaden it would
>> ruin the Strat resonance.
>> I haven't decided any of these things, just observing and
>> experimenting before drawing conclusions.
>> In my wife's photo studio there's a device of some kind with nice
>> foot long springs.
>> Man, I can't walk by that thing without plucking those springs
>> Amazing harp-like  and very synthesizer-like sounds in a big spring
>> like that, and no two springs sound the same.
>> I'll have to record that sound and put it in Alchemy to spread across
>> a keyboard, or run granular synthesis on it.
>> Indi
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/18/2013 12:29 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>> the higher quality metal in the trem block helps sustain because it
>>> allows bettter transfer of vibration into the body wood from the
>>> strings.
>>> the cheap pot metal kind of sucks it up.  You know how if you tap a
>>> really cheap butter knife on the counter top it kind of tings, but
>>> doesn't sustain a long clear note?  whereas, if you have a well made,
>>> high quality piece of flat ware, a butter knife, and you tap it on the
>>> counter, you'll get a clear ringing note that will sustain a long time
>>> with good quality cast metal.
>>> Don't forget, every fender style trem also has springs that attach that
>>> chunk of metal in the block to the body via the spring claw.  The
>>> quality of the springs will also help with sustain and even the over all
>>> tone sometimes.
>>> The more springs you have, the more vibration transfer you will
>>> achieve.  If you don't use the trem at all, putting 5 springs in, plus a
>>> block between the metal trem block and the side of the routed area will
>>> improve transfer even more.
>>> Also, the 6 screw bridge design insures a very solid contact between the
>>> trem plate and the top of the guitar compared to the american standard
>>> design of two bridge pins.
>>> I also wish they would not coat the wood at the point where the trem
>>> plate touches the guitar...this would improve tone, volume and sustain
>>> even more if the layer upon layer of coating wasn't in the way.
>>> If you have stock tuners, cheap tuners, on anything still, just work
>>> them a little bit each day to prevent those dead spots from happening.
>>> Even just an eighth of a turn and then back to standard pitch will keep
>>> them from developing those dead spots and slack points.
>>>
>>> regards
>>> Colin
>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 18, 2013 10:13 AM
>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>
>>>> I do all those string tricks now; smoothing and lubeing friction
>>>> points, stretchings strings manually.
>>>> After reading the great articles on how to get a Fender trem to return
>>>> to tuning after use, I have smoothed the saddle slots, plus lube them
>>>> with teflon, one of my guitars already has a GraphTech Tusq teflonized
>>>> nut, plus the Schaller-type Fender tuners.
>>>> You definitely can't get more than a couple of turns onto those
>>>> extremely short Shaller pegs, and their locking system never slips.
>>>> I don't have problems with the strings slipping on the cheapo Squire
>>>> tuners either; I don't put too many turns onto them; it's just that
>>>> they're stiff as a board when new, then will get crunchy or sloppy as
>>>> they wear, with a big dead spot as you turn the tuning key.
>>>> I really don't mind the cost or work changing them to quality tuners,
>>>> ; only not Schaller-types again, because of its very troublesome
>>>> mounting system.
>>>> Mainly what I need right now is new cast saddles for my Squire Mini,
>>>> which has cheap stamped sheet-metal saddles, and the height adjusting
>>>> screws rattle in the worn out threads in the saddles.
>>>> I'm getting a shipment soon which will include saddles.
>>>> Eventually, I'll probably get a heavy steel trem block for the Squire
>>>> HH, to replace the stock pot metal block.
>>>> You know, Colin, my wife and I sell all kinds of antique and
>>>> collectable things, and potmetal, sometimes called Britannia, or white
>>>> metal, has been around for hundreds of years; used for very
>>>> respectable sculptures, lamps, all kinds of beautiful old things; but
>>>> used to be much harder than the pot metal, or zinc alloy, that Fender
>>>> uses now.
>>>> The stock cast saddles are not much harder than copper, you can easily
>>>> scratch them with a knife, almost like lead; not nearly as hard as
>>>> yellow brass.
>>>> I think they're okay when new, but if you do much adjusting of the
>>>> saddles those threads will wear out and the screws will rattle.
>>>> I can get a set of 6 cast stainless steel saddles for about $13 USD,
>>>> probably worth getting those.
>>>> I suppose a hard steel trem block will provide more sustain than the
>>>> acoustically dead pot metal trem block, some folks say so anyway;
>>>> though I really can'comprehend how the part of the string beyond the
>>>> saddle could influence sustain.
>>>>
>>>> I would never call myself a competant guitarist, since my arthritic
>>>> hands and wrists make it very painful to hold big chords; So, I get by
>>>> with slinky .09-42 strings, plus I put a cut capo on the second fret,
>>>> sometimes other frets, which only capos strings 3, 4, and 5.
>>>> This gives a wonderful bunch of chords that only require a couple of
>>>> fingers to hold, and the droning open strings take me into a Celtic
>>>> world of harmony.
>>>> There's another cut capo technique that uses the 3, 4, 5, capo, plus a
>>>> full six string capo 2 frets below that; that offers a multitude of
>>>> chord equivalents.
>>>> I'll do what ever it takes to get by.
>>>> Indi
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 9/18/2013 12:43 AM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>> you know as a highly experienced guitar player, as are many people
>>>>> here
>>>>> I would guess, the quality of the tuners is only part of the equation
>>>>> for stable tuning.
>>>>> I can obtain pretty stable tuning even with the worst tuners just
>>>>> because I pay attention to how I thread and wind my strings.  The
>>>>> method
>>>>> I use gives the string an awful lot of stability at the tuning peg
>>>>> itself.
>>>>> Also proper bending and so on at the saddle and nut helps to keep that
>>>>> string where it's supposed to be, or allows it to return to a given
>>>>> point even with trem use on a guitar without locking machine heads
>>>>> etc.
>>>>> If you look around on youtube, there are some tricks that high end pro
>>>>> level guitar techs use to maximize tuning stability on strats where
>>>>> the
>>>>> player uses the trem but doesn't want locking anything.
>>>>> I've been using some of them for a few years and I get excellent
>>>>> results...even on the vintage tuners that come stock on the squier
>>>>> classic vibe guitars.  you know, the slotted peg where you poke the
>>>>> end
>>>>> of the string into the middle of the peg...and therefore have to
>>>>> cut it
>>>>> to the right length etc.
>>>>> It's mostly about kinking the string on both sides of the peg before
>>>>> winding, and making sure the windings are even, and that the string
>>>>> stays at the bottom of the winding going towards the nut...also, the
>>>>> right number of windings, no more than 2.5, and that's even a bit much
>>>>> for good solid stability.
>>>>> too many windings gives the string too much to slip on...kinking the
>>>>> string helps to keep it in position in the peg hole, or in the peg
>>>>> slot.
>>>>> Also, of course, even consistent stretching of the string once up to
>>>>> full tention to take all the slack, if any, out of the windings makes
>>>>> all the difference in the world.  I pull the strings out from the
>>>>> fingerboard and snap them until the open string doesn't drop more
>>>>> than a
>>>>> quarter step when pulled sharply.
>>>>> there are lots of ways to skin the cat with strings, but some methods
>>>>> just work everytime and allow you to have a guitar that stays in tune
>>>>> very well with lots of bending, and that will stay in tune even ifyou
>>>>> don't play if for a while.
>>>>> The old excuse of, oh, I have new strings and that's why it's going
>>>>> out
>>>>> of tune or is out of tune is absolute crap if you have put them on
>>>>> correctly.
>>>>> sorry, had to rant there.  I'm sure this discussion has digressed
>>>>> in the
>>>>> extreme from the original thread, sorry guys.
>>>>>
>>>>> regards
>>>>> Colin
>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 7:40 PM
>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>
>>>>>> This is from that same guy, who talks a lot, but really compares
>>>>>> details on guitars.
>>>>>> I'm sorry he has no clean sound for this Squire Bullet HH, but you
>>>>>> can
>>>>>> still hear the big humbucker sound.
>>>>>> By the way, he's feeding into the Overloud TH2, I think it's called,
>>>>>> all software amp modeling.
>>>>>> He describes the tone controls on the HH wrong.
>>>>>> It doesn't have a screwy wiring system, actually very simple; each
>>>>>> pickup has its own entirely separate tone control.
>>>>>> , Of course both tone controls would do the same thing in the middle
>>>>>> position, since each is controlling its own pickup.
>>>>>> Notice how much stronger an effect the tone controls get than on SSS
>>>>>> strats, at least on the ones here.
>>>>>> He's out of tune on this one as well., always says he has new
>>>>>> strings.
>>>>>> He's right about the stock tuners, they're the really horrible cheapo
>>>>>> ones with a shell made of stamped metal, and very crude gears.
>>>>>> I took mine apart and crammed a bunch of my secret mixture horrible
>>>>>> tuner lubricant inside, so now all but 1 are smooth enough.
>>>>>> I'll replace them with some good ones later, but never Schallers
>>>>>> again.
>>>>>> Installing Schallers was a nightmare, with their mounting system.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYnSSrAHYoQ
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 6:20 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>> don't worry I found the clip I think...the one where he compares the
>>>>>>> fifties with the sixties strat, and the john mayor strat?
>>>>>>> all three dreadfully out of tune lol.
>>>>>>> I found the fifties strat had more chime, a smoother low end
>>>>>>> presence
>>>>>>> and was just nicer sounding...given the recording and amp
>>>>>>> conditions.
>>>>>>> the sixties strat definitely had more mid punch and a bit more
>>>>>>> bite, and
>>>>>>> did the hendrix stuff quite well.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> of course all my local stores are out of stock on the squier HH,
>>>>>>> and out
>>>>>>> of stock on the 60's strat too...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> the john mayor signature strat was smoother and more articulate,
>>>>>>> without
>>>>>>> some of the clang and rasp associated with cheaper pickups.  but,
>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>> $350, both the classic vibe strats were more than acceptible to my
>>>>>>> ears.
>>>>>>> A simple pick up change to something more suited to the player and
>>>>>>> style
>>>>>>> of music while still maintaining the strat vibe still puts you
>>>>>>> ahead of
>>>>>>> the cost of a mexican made standard strat.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BTW, both the custom, and '50's tellies are routed for a
>>>>>>> humbucker at
>>>>>>> the neck position.
>>>>>>> That's because one of the models, the thin line maybe? has a
>>>>>>> humbucker
>>>>>>> at the neck...it sounds horrible though with the stock pickup.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:58 PM
>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Hey, I got the right guitar, a Classic Vibes Telley, but the wrong
>>>>>>>> YouTube, which would have been comparing the Strat 50's and
>>>>>>>> 60's; and
>>>>>>>> not the Telecaster.
>>>>>>>> Anyway, it's a great sounding guitar in this video, isn't it?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 4:49 PM, Indigo wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I think this is the link to the YouTube of both the 50''s and 60's
>>>>>>>>> classic Vibes compared, in the same YouTube by the same player,
>>>>>>>>> feeding
>>>>>>>>> them both into the same effects and amp model.
>>>>>>>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNaxOo9SNgo
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The 50's has Alnico 3 magnets, and the 60's has the more powerful
>>>>>>>>> Alnico
>>>>>>>>> 5 magnets, plus the 60's pickups are slightly overwound, just as
>>>>>>>>> Fender
>>>>>>>>> originally made them sometime in the 1960's, 1967 I think it was.
>>>>>>>>> What's to say, I absolutely love the soft sweetness of the 50's
>>>>>>>>> pickups,
>>>>>>>>> especially in blues, but the slightly nasty snarl of the 60's
>>>>>>>>> pickups is
>>>>>>>>> also compelling, so I gotta get both eventually.
>>>>>>>>> At $20 for the 50's neck pickup, $18 for the middle and bridge,
>>>>>>>>> how
>>>>>>>>> can
>>>>>>>>> I not hoard them?
>>>>>>>>> I'm gonna write to the dealer and try to get a even more bargain
>>>>>>>>> deal on
>>>>>>>>> a complete set of both.
>>>>>>>>> A few years down the road they'll be worth much more, plus quality
>>>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>>> probably have deteriorated by then
>>>>>>>>> There's a Strat forum that discovered that the factory in China
>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>> winds them also winds the exact same pickups and markets them with
>>>>>>>>> ToneRider labels on them for $100 each.
>>>>>>>>> The Strat forum guys got both the Fender Classic Vibes and the
>>>>>>>>> ToneRiders and took them apart, measured their number of windings,
>>>>>>>>> impedance, voltage output, every detail; and report that even the
>>>>>>>>> parts
>>>>>>>>> numbers are the same, with only a different letter prefix.
>>>>>>>>> Hey, try a Squire HH when you go to get the Classic Vibes Telley.
>>>>>>>>> As a Fender guy, haven't you always harbored a secret envy of that
>>>>>>>>> huge
>>>>>>>>> humbucker sound of Gibsons?
>>>>>>>>> I always did. smile.
>>>>>>>>> The other night I had it on the bridge pickup, with its Texas
>>>>>>>>> twangyness, and got into countryish sounds with it, a totally
>>>>>>>>> foreign
>>>>>>>>> thing for me.
>>>>>>>>> I don't even own a John B Stetson ten gallon hat!
>>>>>>>>> Nothing will replace the Strat single poles, but I never thought I
>>>>>>>>> could
>>>>>>>>> get such a great humbucker sound from Fender, for only $99, on
>>>>>>>>> sale
>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>> Musician's Friend.
>>>>>>>>> When you lift up the pickguard you see there's a place routed out
>>>>>>>>> in the
>>>>>>>>> middle for a single pole pickup, if you want to add one.
>>>>>>>>> You'd need to add a switch for it, though, and I think I'll just
>>>>>>>>> leave
>>>>>>>>> the HH as it is, and do my experimentation on the mid-nineties
>>>>>>>>> Squire
>>>>>>>>> PartsCaster.
>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 9/17/2013 2:09 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> the classic vibe '50's has the pine body. the classic vibe custom
>>>>>>>>>> has an
>>>>>>>>>> alder body I think...
>>>>>>>>>> I expect I'll have to go get the original guitar I wanted, being
>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>> classic vibe '50's telly...I like the custom, but the pine body,
>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>> neck etc just screams that telly sound to me.
>>>>>>>>>> the custom is warmer and a bit rounder sounding if you will. but
>>>>>>>>>> still
>>>>>>>>>> plenty of telly twang and bite.
>>>>>>>>>> More of a modern telecaster sound.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> It's not just the woods in an electric, but the combination of
>>>>>>>>>> woods
>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>> hardware and pickups and design that all work together to make an
>>>>>>>>>> electric sound like it does.
>>>>>>>>>> Though a swamp ash strat, will sound quite different than a
>>>>>>>>>> basswood
>>>>>>>>>> strat with exactly the same pickups and hardware etc.  Often
>>>>>>>>>> it's a
>>>>>>>>>> diffference in attack, release, sustain,  peak frequency of each
>>>>>>>>>> string
>>>>>>>>>> etc.
>>>>>>>>>> And I can tell you right now, a maple fingerboard sounds utterly
>>>>>>>>>> different than a rosewood fingerboard on an electric.
>>>>>>>>>> probably not allot of tonal difference between say alder and
>>>>>>>>>> basswood...many woods are highly similar as you know.
>>>>>>>>>> wood is often a very subtle thing in a guitar, but it does make
>>>>>>>>>> enough
>>>>>>>>>> difference from instrument to instrument to make them
>>>>>>>>>> individuals.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Did you recommend the classic vibe 50's strat, or the 60's strat?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>> Regards
>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:51 AM
>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Well, I think it's okay to talk guitars here, since guitars have
>>>>>>>>>>> midi
>>>>>>>>>>> too. ha ha, and I record my guitar in Reaper.
>>>>>>>>>>> I think that Classic Vibes Telly  has the pine body, yes?
>>>>>>>>>>> Pine is probably great for a guitar body.
>>>>>>>>>>> You know basswood is what they use for most of the Squires, and
>>>>>>>>>>> it's
>>>>>>>>>>> not as respected as White Ash, mahogany or some of the other
>>>>>>>>>>> woods,
>>>>>>>>>>> but I worked with basswood when I was into model airplanes as a
>>>>>>>>>>> kid,
>>>>>>>>>>> and it's the wood of the really noble Linden tree; that grows a
>>>>>>>>>>> hundred feet tall before it gets many branches, so its wood is
>>>>>>>>>>> absolutely straight grained and tight, soft enough to work
>>>>>>>>>>> easily, but
>>>>>>>>>>> hard enough to take a great finish, actually ideal for electric
>>>>>>>>>>> guitar
>>>>>>>>>>> bodies.
>>>>>>>>>>> Sometimes the oriental-made Fenders cheaton the actual wood
>>>>>>>>>>> used in
>>>>>>>>>>> the necks.
>>>>>>>>>>> I have two made in Indonesia Squires; that have real rock maple
>>>>>>>>>>> necks;
>>>>>>>>>>> as hard and dense as wood gets; and a Made in China Squire from
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> mid nineties that had the excessively fat baseball bat neck,
>>>>>>>>>>> which I
>>>>>>>>>>> slimmed down, and it's an OK wood, but it's definitely not
>>>>>>>>>>> maple.
>>>>>>>>>>> Same with the Korean pseudo-strat, its neck is also some
>>>>>>>>>>> oriental
>>>>>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>>>>>> that looks the same color as maple,; my wife says; but I know
>>>>>>>>>>> how
>>>>>>>>>>> maple works, and how it smells when you're cutting it.
>>>>>>>>>>> My wife and I lived in upper New York state for a while, with
>>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>>> trees all around, I drilled holes in the Sugar Maples and made
>>>>>>>>>>> maple
>>>>>>>>>>> syrup, so I know maple.
>>>>>>>>>>> Maple was a common furniture wood in America for centuries,
>>>>>>>>>>> and I
>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>> maple furniture parts around here.
>>>>>>>>>>> When I get through with some current experiments, I'm going to
>>>>>>>>>>> build a
>>>>>>>>>>> sort of chapman stick thing, and I'll probably use some old
>>>>>>>>>>> furniture
>>>>>>>>>>> maple for its body.
>>>>>>>>>>> I already cut down the body from the Korean pseudo-strat to
>>>>>>>>>>> make a
>>>>>>>>>>> chapman stick thing and got sick from the poisonous wood and
>>>>>>>>>>> glue in
>>>>>>>>>>> its body.
>>>>>>>>>>> I think it was Black Ash, or some variant, which I was really
>>>>>>>>>>> allergic
>>>>>>>>>>> to as a kid.
>>>>>>>>>>> Actually, I'm not buying the mythology of how much difference
>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>> species of wood makes to the sound of an electric guitar.
>>>>>>>>>>> Some of the Dan Electros of the sixties and earlier weren't even
>>>>>>>>>>> wood,
>>>>>>>>>>> but that paper pressed board, about 3/eighths inch thick, with a
>>>>>>>>>>> minimal frame inside of 1 inch square Douglas Fir wood, and a
>>>>>>>>>>> big
>>>>>>>>>>> rubber bumper all around the outside edge, so you could knock it
>>>>>>>>>>> around all you pleased  and it'd never show a scar.
>>>>>>>>>>> Those Dan Electros bring big prices from the collectors.
>>>>>>>>>>> The Dan Electros were totally shielded against hum inside, so
>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>> weren't affected by flourescent lights or amps nearby, which
>>>>>>>>>>> helped
>>>>>>>>>>> their sound more than any fancy wood would ever have done.
>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 6:19 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> yep, the clasic vibe '50's telly was my first choice, but
>>>>>>>>>>>> all the
>>>>>>>>>>>> local
>>>>>>>>>>>> stores were sold out, and I won't buy a guitar without
>>>>>>>>>>>> playing it
>>>>>>>>>>>> first.
>>>>>>>>>>>> The classic vibe custom telly was a real close second, and I
>>>>>>>>>>>> actually
>>>>>>>>>>>> liked it a bit more with the rosewood fingerboard...I know, I
>>>>>>>>>>>> know,
>>>>>>>>>>>> tellies should be maple, but just the combinations of woods
>>>>>>>>>>>> makes
>>>>>>>>>>>> this
>>>>>>>>>>>> one sound incredibly telly like.
>>>>>>>>>>>> anyway, this isn't the blind guitarist list hahaha.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 3:55 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> When I heard YouTube demos of the Classic Vibe 50's and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 60's, I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> said I
>>>>>>>>>>>>> gotta have those pickups, which are classic alnico III or
>>>>>>>>>>>>> alnico 5's
>>>>>>>>>>>>> staggered single poles; and copied exactly from the ones
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strats
>>>>>>>>>>>>> had in
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the fifties or sixties, only with vinyl insulated wires
>>>>>>>>>>>>> instead of
>>>>>>>>>>>>> cloth covered.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I bought the Classic Vibes fifties neck position pickup new,
>>>>>>>>>>>>> genuine
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Fender part with serial number, for $20 on ebay
>>>>>>>>>>>>> It's sitting in the neck position on my Squire Mini right
>>>>>>>>>>>>> now, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> sounds great.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm going to order the others later, the middle and bridge of
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Classic Vibes fifties and sixties; too good to miss for
>>>>>>>>>>>>> such low
>>>>>>>>>>>>> prices, and the next thing you know they won't be available
>>>>>>>>>>>>> any
>>>>>>>>>>>>> more.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> They're not over Wound or hot, just soft and sweet!
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I really don't get why alnico should sound so good, magnets
>>>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>>>> magnets, and I can't believe the material could put out a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> different
>>>>>>>>>>>>> sort of magnetism, but the alnicos sure do sound sweeter.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On the other hand, I think the Squire HH humbuckers are
>>>>>>>>>>>>> ceramic, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>> it's so easy to get a classic fat Gibson sound from them.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 5:32 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> squier's have gotten really good again.  I've got the classic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> vibe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> custom telecaster and it's a very very good guitar in all
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> aspects.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Putting seymour duncan vintage 54's on it soon because that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is my
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> preference not because the stock pickups are bad.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll try out the squier HH next time i'm in the guitar shop.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 3:16 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I read that Gibson is sneaking partial printed circuit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> boards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> into
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> their guitars.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strats and Squires are still hand-wired circuits, though
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> parts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the China 5 way switch looks like something you'd find on a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> printed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> circuit board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sometimes it's just luck.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I just got the Squire HH, with two Fender-made humbuckers,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and a 3
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> position switch.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Man does it sound like a big fat Les Paul Gibson, and not
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> much
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Strat, but what a winner for $99.95.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Made in Indonesia, with a perfect neck, perfect intonation,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> low
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lying
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> action, nothing I need to do with setup to make it better.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I believe the body cavity is even painted with conductive
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shielding
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> paint, because there's a grounding wire screwed into the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> at the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bottom of the cavity.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> It's dead quiet, no hum at all, even before I got the Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> G2.1U
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> grounded.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll replace the stock tuners sometime, probably get better
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> saddles,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> probably a steel trem block instead of the potMetal one, but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> those
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just niceties, not essentials.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Some people report crooked necks, setup all wrong, crooked
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> screws.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The first Peavey Power Slide I got; Handcrafted in China,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> had no
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> springs on the pickup, so if you tilted the guitar the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pickup
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> fell
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> toward the strings, then when you tilted the guitar  the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> other way
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pickup fell to the bottom of the body cavity.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Whoever strung it up had sharp kinks in the middle of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> most of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> strings.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I could have found springs for the pickup somewhere, but I
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> called
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Peavey and they said to send it back, not to fix it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The next one was totally perfect, no flaws I can find.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I guess the factory terminated the worker who made the first
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> recycled him.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 3:34 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> yep, that's how they're making them and have been for quite
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> some
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> if you read any amp forum, especially fender amp forums,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> first recommended mods is to install a proper input jack
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> amp...one that has lots of metal in it, and that you can
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hard
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wire to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the PCB instead of the stock plastic version that has pcb
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lugs
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> soldered
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> directly to the board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Input or output jack nuts are constantly coming loose with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regular
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> use,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and so once that nut has loosened off a bit, all the strain
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> your
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> patch cable is put onto the solder lugs of the jack, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thus
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> onto the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pcb itself. This either snaps off lugs, breaks solder
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> joints, or,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cracks
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> traces on the board...stupid design, but a buck cheaper
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> manufacturer.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that's why I always run my cable through the handle on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> amp
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> strain relief.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've got an older dunlop crybaby wah which is supposed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> high
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quality construction.  I opened up to fix, and both
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jacks are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plastic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> housed and have spring pins for the ground contact on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sleve
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quarter inch plug...what happens with spring contacts?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> either
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bend, or loose their spring over time and fail to make
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contact.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> guess
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> why the pedal isn't working right now? lol  and the worst
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> part
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is, the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> way they designed the pedal, you have to use these specific
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jacks
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> because of their housing and how the shell of the pedal is
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> built.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the common quarter inch phone jack is a very old design
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> industry
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and consumers I guess, are still willing to put up with the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inherent
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> problems associated with those kinds of connections.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> not only are you depending on a compression spring contact,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but it
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> moves
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and twists all the time.  neutric, speak on, even xlr is
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> far
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> better.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and don't even get me started on gold plating lol.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 12:45 PM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You know, something bothers me about what you say about
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inputs and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> outputs having plastic threads.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> For a jack to work you need at least two conduction
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> points, 1
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sleeve of the plug and another 1 for its tip.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Please don't say that China is making all plastic jacks,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> tinfoil thick metal liner inside the plastic shell?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Oh Lord, what next; are they going to make our gear
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> entirely
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rice
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flour noodles?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The China pickguard I just bought has a 5 way toggle
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> feels
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about the same from the topside as the classic Fender
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> underneath the pickguard you find the switch is only a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> little
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle made of fiberboard, with tiny solder lugs and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contact
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> points riveted to the fiberboard.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I was replacing the neck pickup, and placed the tip of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> soldering
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> gun against the corner lug, with light pressure, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> suddenly
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the lug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and a chunk of the fiberboard split off.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So great to watch how it all is getting flimsier and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flimsier;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> isn't
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Luckily I have a classic-era  Fender 5 way switch to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> replace it
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> an all metal thing with big sturdy solder lugs and switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> contacts
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inside it.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> By the way, if you're an experimenter, you can make an
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> auditory
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> conductivity meter from a small battery holder,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> preferably a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> single
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> triple A battery, wired in series with any old single
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> headphone
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> salvaged from a pair of stereo headphones that quit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> working
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on one
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> side.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You end up with 2 wires.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If there is conduction between any 2 lugs you touch with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> those 2
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wires; you hear a nice loud click in the headphone.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You can use a battery that's too weak to run any gear, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it'll
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plenty of voltage to make the headphone click for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> months and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> months.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Indi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 9/16/2013 12:00 PM, Colin McDonald wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you got lucky, many pedals and multi-effects units these
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> days
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plastic shell input/output jacks.  Which means that
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> though
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> they
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> may
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a metal nut on the outside, it's holding a plastic
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> housing
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> around
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> jack.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> IE, no ground path through the retention nut.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You often have to go inside and solder or secure a lug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plate that generally resides on the bottom of these
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> units to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> give
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> them
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> weight.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Even the hallowed boss pedals use a big old plate on the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bottom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal to give it some weight and make people think it's a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> higher
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> quality
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> unit because it's heavier...it's also done to help
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> keep the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sliding around all over the place.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you also got lucky because putting an additional wire
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> unit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> other equipment in your signal path can often create
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ground
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> loops
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> causes a bigger problem than before.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> don't forget, your patch cables do all the grounding for
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> you at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> least on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the audio signal path side.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wall warts have no ground to speak of beyond the obvious
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> one at
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ground side of the 2 prong plug into the wall.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> What you were actually experiencing was a high level
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of AC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> floating on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the DC coming from the wallwart to your pedal.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wallwarts are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seldom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> properly rectified, so they have allot of AC bleeding
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> through
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> causes the hum you hear.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that is why allot of pro audio gear uses AC to the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> equipment, and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> takes
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> care of the rectification and filtering inside the unit
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> itself.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> what you've essentially done is allowed for some
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectification on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the dc
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and you are bleeding the ac off into a large ground
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> source, IE
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rack...the rack probably has something in it that has
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> excellent
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectification and a good solid ground source to bleed
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> additional AC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the circuit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> anyway, regardless, sounds like it worked.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> anyone who runs 9VDC equipment in the studio should
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> proper
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> power
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> supply to help minimize hum and so on.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> regards
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Colin
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> From: "Indigo" <33indigo at charter.net>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2013 4:11 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> To: "Reapers Without Peepers" <rwp at reaaccess.com>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [RWP] Adrenalinn guitar pedal's sounds
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm not too skilled on either, but I'd rather play midi
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> files
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> keyboard than from a guitar.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I only want midi pads to make guitar tracks more lush;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and do
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> what
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> only synths can do in the background.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Yesterday I put a ground wire on my Zoom G2.1U, did a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> neat job
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> solder lug under the nut on the pedal jack in back'
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wire
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> going
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> up to the steel and aluminum rack; where all the gear
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> resides,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seems to have soaked up all the stray RF fields in this
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> room; so
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hum
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is no longer a problem.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The little 9 volt wall wart transformer for the Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pedal was
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> not
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> internally well grounded, so that I would hear hum and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buzz
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> very high gain overdrive settings, but could touch the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> metal
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cover of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the cable's plug; or touch the metal foot switches on
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Zoom
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the hum and buzz would go away.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Amazing what a good ground our body provides!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can only imagine how many different RF frequencies are
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> buzzing
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> through my body right now, and I don't even feel them.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So, now that it's properly grounded; the Zoom is good
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> enough
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> as a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> multi-effects unit and preamp for the guitar, then I
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> got the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plug
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> version of Roger Linn's Adrenalinn to run in Reaper.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Adrenalinn does pretty things to guitar notes and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> chords,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> delays
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that go through 32 step arpeggios that are way more
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sophisticated
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> than
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the usual keyboard arpeggios.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You aren't intended to play fast lines; instead you just
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> play
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> slowly
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and provide room  for Adrenalinn to do its arpeggios and
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> filter
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> modulations.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Meanwhile, if I can get a software pitch-to-midi plug to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bring in
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> lush
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> midi pads, behind the guitar; the tracks will be filled
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> plenty of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> beautiful sounds.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If I want a quick passage on a midi synth, I'd be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inclined to
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> reach for a keyboard and play it there; so tracking
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> guitar
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't need to be fast, and doesn't even need to be
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> polyphonic;
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> does need to be accurate to trigger midi pads in the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> right
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> key.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Several of the software pitch-to-midi plugs I've
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> collected
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have the
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> option to restrict the midi output to a fixed scale, so
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it's
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> theoretically impossible to get notes that glitch out of
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> key.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've just got to find time to test out the various
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pitch-to-midi
>>>>>
>
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